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Barnbougle
Castle
The
hound of Barnbougle
Barnbougle Castle. Just off the busy A90 road from Edinburgh to the Forth
Road Bridge. and in the shadow of the Rail Bridge. is Dalmeny.The
West Lothian coastline between Cramond and South Queensferry
is a paradise for sea-birds, and the level coast with woodlands
coming down almost to the water's edge attracts those who prefer
a quiet secluded stroll rather than a rock clamber.

On
the shore stands Barnbougle Castle, and with it are connected
the stories of two families, the Mowbrays and the Roseberys.
For 300 years the estate has belonged to the Roseberys who now
live at Dalmeny House, built by the fourth Earl in 1815. Barnbougle,
the original house just a quarter of a mile away, came into
the family's possession in the 1660s when Sir Archibald Primrose
bought it for his son who was created 1st Earl of Rosebery in
1703.

It
seems to have been a bad buy, for the 12th century castle was
cold, damp and draughty, which put rather a strain on the marital
relationships in the 150 years the family occupied it. The 2nd
Earl didn't help matters, preferring to squander his money on
his profligate ways rather than on his castle home, which naturally
deteriorated. His son spent all his married life incognito on
the Continent, discovering only at his wife's death that there
was good reason for her reluctance to return to Britain,
she had married him bigamously! He didn't survive her very long,
leaving his younger brother to succeed to the Earldom.

It
was in this period too that the Countess of Rosebery's sister
was lured away while she was visiting Barnbougle. Lord Lovat
of Fraser determined to make her his second wife. She spurned
his advances, only to fall victim to his hoax message purporting
to come from her mother. She found herself in Lord Lovat's presence
in what he said was 'a house of evil repute', and to save her
reputation, she married him, and lived to regret it. The third
Earl was just as reluctant to spend money on his castle as was
his father and as he lived to be an octogenarian it was a very
dilapidated inheritance he passed on to his son. The new Countess
felt she had suffered the hardships and inconveniences of Barnbougle
long enough, and a year later she ran off with another man.
Within three years her ex-husband was bringing his new bride
to his equally new home, Dalmeny House.
His
grandson who succeeded him became Prime Minister of the Liberal
Government in 1894 when Gladstone resigned. By,this time Barnbougle
was a dangerous ruin but instead of having it demolished Lord
Rosebery had it renovated and used it as a quiet retreat to
study and prepare his speeches. Before coming into the possession
of the Roseberys Barnbougle had been the ancient seat of the
Mowbrays. The family were deeply involved in the Crusades, serving
as Knights Templar, and when that Order degenerated, turned
their energies to smuggling, Barnbougle being ideally situated
for such a pursuit!
Hound Point which juts out as a headland into the Firth, brings
the two coast lines of Fife and West Lothian within two miles
of each other. It takes its name from the legend of Sir Roger
de Mowbray who went off to fight in the Crusades. As he was
leaving his faithful hound looked so mournful and wailed its
sorrow so loudly that Sir Roger took it along. After sundry
adventures the knight fell in battle. On the night he died a
hound was heard to bay all night long on the shore near Barnbougle, and since then just before a Laird of Barnbougle dies, a
hound appears ·on the shore and 'a ghostly baying is
heard, a legend which is immortalised in an old ballad:
"And
ever when Barnbougle's lords
Are parting this scene below
Come hound and ghost to this haunted coast
With death notes winding slow. "
If
you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized
small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me:
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