When the
road and rail bridges were built over the rivers Forth and Tay,
people suddenly began to discover the long-forgotten wonderland
that is the Kingdom of Fife. For many a century no other place
in Scotland was quite as exciting to live in and it still has
a heritage that is unique, though four hundred years have passed
since the height of its fame.
Man came
early to settle in Fife. About eight thousand years ago, when
the entire population of Scotland numbered only a few hundreds,
a strip of coastline in North Fife was one of the rare abodes
of those Stone Age settlers, the Mesolithic folk. It is still
a good place for people who like shellfish, as they did.
Later, in
Neolithic times and through the long centuries of the Bronze
Age, the population was steadily growing. And then, almost two
thousand four hundred years ago, a great wave of invaders from
the Continent - the Gaelic-speaking Celts - swept triumphantly
into Scotland to start a new Iron Age of progress. Their first
foothold was on the shores of the River Tay. And up the estuary,
where the hills of North Fife and Perthshire meet, the invaders
covered the summits with forts that are still clearly visible.
Centuries
later the early Christian missionaries arrived and one of these
was a monk called St. Rule, from Patras in Western Greece. He
brought a human armbone, three fingers from a right hand, one
tooth and a knee-cap, all genuine parts of the skeleton of St.
Andrew. People liked a piece of a saint in those days.
Something
else happened too that was even more remarkable. When the local
King of the Picts went down to the shore to find why this stranger
had come to his realm, suddenly a great white cross appeared,
shimmering diagonally in the clear blue sky. The cross eventually
became the national flag of Scotland and the martyr of Patras
the patron saint of Scotland. People did not know much about
this St. Andrew. He was a far-off mystery man. But his bones
were potent and that was what mattered.
Far better
known, among the saints of Fife, was St. Margaret, the Queen
of Malcolm Canmore. Most of her life was spent in Southern Fife,
at the city of Dunfermline, then the capital of Scotland. There
a shrine was erected in her memory soon after her death, and
later she was given a more magnificent memorial, the great Benedictine
Abbey which her son David, erected. The ashes of all but her
head are still there.
Through
most of the middle ages the Earls of Fife were first among the
nobility of Scotland. They had hereditary right to place the
crown on the King's head at his coronation and to lead the vanguard
of his army into battle. Fife too was the home of Scotland's
leading churchman, the arch-bishop of St. Andrews. The cathedral
at St. Andrews was by far the largest in the land, well over
100 hundred yards long.
It was here
that higher education flourished for the first time in Scotland
after St. Andrews University was founded in 1411. Among Royal
Palaces, too, the first favorite of Scottish monarchs for almost
two centuries was Falkland Palace in Fife, built with a Renaissance
grandeur that has been described as without parallel in the
British Isles.
Fife in
those days was noted not just for its palaces, its churchmen
and its scholars. It was equally famed for its rich merchants
and its thriving trade with the European Continent. All along
the East Neuk coast, crowded hard against each other were the
Royal Burghs and the burghs of barony that specialized in this
overseas trade. In addition to the merchants and seamen on their
peaceful missions, Fife, produced a special breed of sea-dogs
whose fought the pirates of England for their Scottish shipmasters.
Those East
Neuk ports were prosperous, with sturdy little houses beside
the sea-wall or up narrow wynds ( alleys ) that led so often
from the shore to the High Street far above it. It was the fisherfolk
who lived in the wynds. The sea captains and the merchants had
more spacious mansions, while the lairds loved the safety of
castles. One of the special charms of Fife is the abundance
of old houses, small and large, which still look as fresh today
as when they were built long centuries ago.
But it was
not all work and no play on those far-off days. In Fife is the
oldest tennis court in Scotland, a royal one built for James
V at Falkland Palace in 1539. There, people still play real-tennis,
which is tough and fast and very different from the tennis of
today. As for golf, there Fife has no equal in all the world.
By 1522 the game had already become an obsession at St. Andrews
and it has remained one ever since.
The word
" Fife " was originally an old Danish word that meant
" Wooded Country." But why Danish ? You only have
to look at Fife on the map of Scotland to see why. The Kingdom
of Fife thrusts itself into the North Sea like the head of a
belligerent wolf, challenging the snarling longships to come
and fight.
And come
they did. To Fife Ness, just a few miles NE of Crail, and where
the Fifemen waited, and where Dane's Dyke and the Longman's
Grave record their incursions; to the May Island, where 600
monks were sadly massacred; and to the Caiplie Coves and all
along the East Neuk coast to Earlsferry, where stone coffins
were unearthed containing their remains. In fact the Danish
Vikings suffered so many defeats in Fife that it became known
as their burial ground. The crafty Danes were given something
to think about by the even craftier Fifers.
And why
the " wooded country ? " Well, a long time ago, when
James IV built his huge ship " The Great Michael ",
it was said, with typical Fife exaggeration, that he cut down
all the wooded areas of Fife just to build her. Certainly it
was Fife where his Keel-cutters came from.
It was also
in Fife that Alexander III plunged to his death; Macduff fled
from Macbeth; Robert the Bruce's parents courted; King Malcolm
met his beloved Margaret; Mary of Lorraine landed at Balcomie;
Sir Henry Wood trounced Henry VIII's navy between Crail and
the May Island; Andrew Selkirk ( alias Robinson Crusoe ) sailed
from Largo; the Spanish survivors of the Armada put into Anstruther;
Cardinal Beaton was slung into an unknown grave near Kilrenny;
and James V crossed the wee Dreel Burn in Anstruther on the
back of a Fife girl.
From Pictish
relics, to cathedrals and royal palaces, picturesque villages
and great castles, history is but a step away in the Kingdom
of Fife. Think golf and you, of course, think of St Andrews.
But golf fever is not confined to St Andrews alone, there are
more than 43 courses in the Kingdom.