Crossing
northward over Loch Tay one comes from one of the smallest glens
in Scotland to the longest, Glen Lyon,
although now it is somewhat curtailed. The river Lyon has its
many sources in the hills that surround the loch of the
same name which is set just to the north of the Forest of Mamlorn.
Beinn Heasgarnich (3,530 feet) and Creag Mhor
(3,387 feet) dominate Loch Lyon southward, while Beinn Mhanach
(3,215 17 feet) Beinn Achaldair (3,399 feet) and Beinn A’
Chreachain (3,540 feet) firm a crescent-shaped block to the
north.
Loch Lyon,
at the head of this great glen, is now the site of a series
of very ambitious hydro-electric schemes which have resulted
in the damming of the loch at Lubreoch while a new reservoir
has been established lower down the river at Stronuich. These
works, desirable
though they are, are certainly no improvement to the glen itself
so that Glen Lyon is perhaps best explored by
working eastward, thus turning our backs on such features and
following the bustling river down towards its junction with
the Tay near Taymouth Castle, for the works of nature still
far surpass the works of man both in scope and beauty.
At Cashlie,
below Stuchd an Lochain (3,144 feet) are to be found the best
preserved of some twelve Iron-Age
ring-frwts, or fortified homesteads. The glen’s old name
is Cromghlearn nan clach, ‘crooked glen of the stones’
and,
according to fable, Fingal had twelve castles in this glen.
The glen widens through Kenknock and Moar, where the road crosses
the burn from Loch Giorra, until, south of
the road and the river, can be seen the ramparts of Castle Meggernie.
Raised around 1582 by ‘Mad Cohn’ Campbell, the castle
is privately owned. ‘Mad Cohn’s’ great grandson
Robert Campbell, brought notoriety to the glen with his involvement
in the Glencoe massacre in
I692, but another past owner, one James Menzies, established
a more peaceful image as the man who introduced larch trees
to Scotland.
A little
further down the glen is Bridge of Balgie, whence a road probes
south to the heart ot the hills of the Lawers group, passing
Lochan na Lairige. another
hydro-electric site, on its way to join the A827 which runs
by the north bank of Loch Tay. Further east from Bridge of Balgie
a track leads north between Meali
a Mhuic (2.444 feet) and Beinn Dearg (2,702 feet) on its way
to Dali and Loch Rannoch.
Beyond innerwick
and on the north bank of the river is Camusvrachan while to
the south is Miiton nestling below the range that is dominated
by Ben Lawers (3,984 feet). The height of Ben Lawers has long
presented both an enigma and a challenge. For many years the
mountain was wrongly included among the select band of those
which topped the 4,000 feet mark and after its true height had
been established one Malcom Fergusson restored its distinction
by constructing a cairn on the summit sonic sixteen feet high
but sadly it did not
survive the storms and tempests of later years and Ben Lawers
is now back again to its true elevation. Renowned for the rare
alpine plants which flourish here. both Ben Lawers and neighbouring
Beinn Ghlas are owned by the National Trust for Scotland. In
more recent years the establishment of ski slopes and a centre
in Coire Odhar has further popularised the area.
North of
the glen at this point is Carn Gorm (3,370 feet), ‘blue
hill’ and a little further east is Carn Mairg (3,419 feet)
the ‘rust-coloured hill’. In the narrow river gorge
is found ‘Macgregor’s Leap’ where the clansman,
a fugitive from Campbell vengeance, jumped the river to save
his
life during a flight into exile with hounds baying at his heels.
Beyond Glen
Lyon the river flows past the site of an ancient Roman encampment
and the town of Fortingall.
Here can be found the two thousand year old yew tree under which
Pontius Pilate, the son of a Roman legionary, is said by some
to have been born.
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