One of the
most famous, yet rarely visited glens in all of the Highlands,
Glenlyon is also one of the longest- at least for a mountain
cul-de-sac as opposed to a long rift valley. It opens from the
Appin of Dull, at Fortingall, and extends 25 miles westwards,
roughly parallel with Loch Tay to the south. Just past Loch
Lyon, it merges into a high pass which leads to the head of
Glen Orchy.
Throughout
that long distance it winds in wild beauty amongst ever more
solitary peaks, and varies as much in character, as in width
and height. Indeed, its constant variety, between gentle beauty
and fierce grandeur, is part of the great attraction of Glenlyon.
West from
the village of Fortingall, only a mile up the glen, is MacGregor's
Leap, where in 1565, the Chief of the landless Greglach made
an incredible leap across the river chasm when pursued by Campbell
Bloodhounds. Two miles further up, there are a series of spectacular
waterfalls, as the Allt Da-gohb rushes down to the floor of
the glen.
At the next
hamlet, Innerwick, there is the 18th century Glenlyon Parish
Church. But the hub of the glen is a little farther on, at Bridge
of Balgie. Here the road forks, one branch turning south-westwards
to climb steeply over the shoulder of Ben Lawers to Loch Tay.
The other road continues up the glen, climbing to avoid the
lands of Meggernie Castle, a fine late 16th century structure,
whitewashed and set amidst ancient trees. It was built by Cailean
Gorach, or Mad Colin Campbell in 1580, who amongst other exploits
abducted the Countess of Erroll and held her there. Another
lady is said to haunt Meggernie. She was the wife of a Menzies
laird, who murdered her in a fit of jealously, and then cut
up her body into halves for better disposal. Perhaps for the
best, it her upper half which haunts the castle.
Three miles
on, the Glenlyon road passes Loch Cashlie where, at the side
of the road are a group of cairns and what appears to be an
ancient earth-house. As the head of the glen is neared, or at
least the road-end, the scenery becomes more bleak and treeless.
Beyond rear the mountains of, Ben Achallader and Heasgarnich,
and ranging to the south the fierce contours of the Tarmachan
mountains.
Glenlyon
is easily reached from Perth: