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Tour Killiecrankie
Killiecrankie
is one of the famous names of Scotland, renowned both for its
history and its scenery. The Pass of Killiecrankie lies three
miles north of Pitlochry, and for a mile threads the deep, steep,
thickly-wooded gorge of the Garry, between a spur of Ben Vrackie
(2757 feet) and Tenandry Hill, with the village at the north
end. Through this narrow winding defile, above the rushing river,
run the A 9 highway and the railway to Inverness.
About a
mile beyond the Pass, to the north, was fought in 1689 the famous
battle, between the forces of William of Orange, newly brought
to the throne, and the unseated and exiled James VII and II.
General Mackay, a veteran of the foreign wars, led the government
forces, and Graham of Claverhouse, Viscount Dundee, the Jacobites.
It is rather strange how popular a hero he has become in Scottish
minds--for he was scarcely popular at the time, his stern hand
at the putting down of the Covenanters, during the preceding
'Killing Times', making his name execrated by many. However,
his looks and the well-known song between them, seem to have
metamorphosed him. 'Bonnie Dundee' won this battle, but fell
in the moment of victory, a stone marking the spot. His dying
words are famed. "How goes the day ?" he gasped, of
a man named Johnson, who had aided him down from his saddle.
"Well for King James," the other answered. "But
I am sorry for your lordship." The dying Dundee said, "If
it is well for him, it matters the less for me" He did
not speak again. Two thousand of the government troops were
killed or captured, for a loss of 900 Highlanders. Nevertheless,
with Dundee's death, the victory was more or less fruitless,
and that Jacobite campaign soon ended.
The Pass,
once a dangerous trap for travellers, and the key to Atholl,
is now a popular venue for visitors, and the National Trust
for Scotland, owners of the property, have an attractive centre
here. Towards the north end is the famed Soldier's Leap, where
one of Mackay's fleeing men managed to jump the foaming cataract
between two fearsome rocks, and so escape the pursuing enemy.
Spanning
the river to the south is Bridge of Garry, recently replaced
by a modern structure. This carries the road to Tummel and Rannoch.
Just over the bridge, a small and very steeply-climbing side-road
branches off to the right, to ascend high above the Pass on
the west side, passing the remotely but beautifully sited church
and manse of Tenandry. Although an ancient parish, the present
church was built only in 1836, with seating for 430, an extraordinary
provision for a place of worship with no centre of population
for miles around. The graveyard is most attractively carved
out of the steep birchwoods.
This high
back-road drops as steeply beyond, to rejoin the A 9 by another
bridge, at Killiecrankie village, passing a lofty-sited dun
on the way. But a branch-road continues on up the south side
of the Garry for nearly four miles, coming to a dead-end opposite
Blair Atholl, with which it communicates only by a footbridge.
On the way, this riverside road serves the scattered farms and
mansion of Strathgarry, and the large and inevitably unsightly
quarry near Glackmore. Two fords are marked on the map as crossing
the wide and rushing river; but it would be a bold motorist
who attempted them.
If
you would like to Tour Killiecrankie on a unique tour of my
native Scotland please e-mail me: Sandy
Stevenson
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