South-East
from Braemore between Sgurr Ban and Sgurr Mor through the trackless
valley of Lochhaidh Bhroain is Kinlochewe at the head of Loch
Maree. This small town
is a good centre for both climbers and fishermen with good catches
of sea-trout, salmon and brown trout to be had locally. It guards
the entrance to Glen Torridon and if we proceed south-east,
an area of really outstanding scenic beauty opens up on either
side.
To the north
are the towering peaks of Ben Eighe while four miles down from
the town is beautiful Loch Clair set
amidst pine trees. Ben Eighe is part of the first National Nature
Reserve to be set up in Britain, having been founded in 1951.
It extends for over 10,000 acres of
the wilder part of Wester Ross and contains an enormous variety
of wildlife. Here can be found the wild cat, the pine martin
and the red deer as well as the golden eagle. Ben Eighe rears
up impressively to a height of 3,309 feet,
displaying red sandstone flanks powdered with white quartzite.
Perhaps
even more impressive is Liathach, pronounced Lee-a-Gach, which
means ‘The Grey One’. Glen Torridon is reputed to
be the oldest glen in the world and to have the oldest mountains
rising from its floor, and when the gaunt peaks of Liathach
are seen one can believe this to be true. The mountain range
has an extreme height of
3,546 feet and climbers following the ridge along its rugged
length, over pinnacles and buttresses with dizzy drops either
side, and along the precipitous crags, find it exhilarating
but it is not a route that should be tried by an amateur.
The whole
of the Glen is flanked by such peaks and among the others crowding
hard around it and the shores of the sea-loch are Beinn Alligin
(3,323 feet), Beinn Dearg (2,995 feet) and Maol (3,060 feet)
to the south beyond the Coulin Forest. Glen Coulin connects
with Glen Carron which contains another lovely loch at the neck
of which stands Strome Ferry.
On the north
side of Loch Carron is the town which bears its name and from
here can be reached Shieldaig on the
southern shore of Loch Torridon and the Balgy ‘Gap’
beyond, served by a new road. To the west a turn at Tornapress
opens up the wild scenic grandeur of the
Applecross Forest, a peninsula that borders on the inner Sound
with superb views across to the isle of Skye. The town of Applecross
rejoices in being one of the most inaccessible places in Britain
and to reach it the single road negotiates a long succession
of hairpin bends between fearsome black cliffs, rising to a
height of
2,054 feet, which makes the pass of Bealach-nam-BO, the Pass
of the Cattle, the second highest in the land.
From the
heights the Sgurr a’ Chavrachain (3,452 feet) can be seen
and the frowning summit of Ben Sgriol south
across the water above Arnisdale, while to the west are the
small islands of Rona and Raasay. The coast north of
Applecross is moorland crossed by a pathway to the head of Loch
Torridon at Rubha na Fearn which then turns back to Shieldaig.
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