Perhaps
the most widely known of Scottish lochs, Loch Ness is about
twenty-four miles in overall length but is
comparatively narrow, being less than two miles wide at its
maximum. It extends north-east to south-west along
the Great Glen, whose length divides Scotland in half and which
was formed by a geological fault. This enormous
fracture of the earth’s crust left the fissures which
are now filled by the waters of Loch Ness, Loch Oich and Loch
Lochy. The skill of Thomas Telford joined these natural waterways
by canal and lock to produce the Caledonian Canal. Almost 6,000
men were employed
in this great work before the canal was opened in 1822.
The hills
which surround Loch Ness plunge at an angle of almost forty-five
degrees into its deep waters in a manner reminiscent perhaps
of a Norwegian fiord. The enormous depth of the water and its
discolouration by peat accounts for its dark and murky appearance.
Visibility under water is very restricted, even just a few feet
below the surface. Soundings have placed the loch floor at 750
feet down in some places while recently a depth of 970 feet
was touched at a point just south of Urquhart Castle.
Several
interesting geographical features make the loch unique. Its
great depth makes it the largest body of fresh
water in the British Isles. It never freezes over and even in
the coldest winter it maintains itself, somehow, at an almost
constant temperature of 42 degrees fahrenheit. This has long
been a cause for wonderment and a letter written in 1675 states;
“Our famous Lake Ness never freezes; but on the contrary
in the violentest frosts, the great clouds of steams do arise
from it.”
Fort Augustus
atthe southern end of the loch was developed in the aftermath
of the 1715 uprising and was named after the Duke of Cumberland.
During the ‘45
it was taken by the Jacob ites but later it was re-occupied
by the Hanoverians and a garrison remained there for a considerable
time. Before the road was built, the garrison of the fort had
to be supplied by water, a sixty-ton sloop sailing up and dawn
the loch from Inverness. Ultimately the old fort was demolished
and the Benedictine Order established a monastery there was
an abbey and a school.
At one time
the only road connection between this outpost and Inverness
was the military road constructed by General Wade and his troops
which runs along the eastern shore of the loch from Inverness
to Fort Augustus through Dores, Inverfarigaig, Foyers and
Glendoebeg. At the latter the river Farigaig enters the loch
in a small bay, while at Foyers are located the famous Falls
of Foyers, which once cascaded down a ninety feet waterfall
but now they are much reduced.
The old
ruin of Castle Urquhart has a dimly remembered history. It was
raised, it is said, by the Lords of the Isles. The Cummins once
had it as their seat of power and it was sacked by Edward I
during his campaigns. Robert the Bruce laid siege to Urquhart
and later held it. At the time of the 1715 rising it was reported
that the old castle, then long abandoned, had blown down during
a great storm. Certainly it was shunned for centuries.
On the western
side of the loch a new road was constructed during the 1930’s
which connects Fort Augustus with Inverness through Inchnacardoch,
Invermoriston, where the Moriston river runs into the loch through
a deep pool, and then on through Drumnadrochit and Abriachan.
Most of the shoreline is overgrown and there are few places
where the loch can be clearly seen from the road. Perhaps the
best vantage points are at Castle Urquhart and Fort Augustus.
However
unusual and scenically attractive the loch may be, what draw
the visitors are of course the legends and
reports of the great beast that is thought to frequent it. Although
the current spate of interest in this creature, mythical or
otherwise, was revived during the 1930’s,
the sightings and stories concerning it go back into antiquity
and not until one starts to gather in the reports down the centuries
does one realise just how frequently the monster has been reported.
The earliest witness is alleged to have been St. Columba in
565 A.D. According to an account of his life, written a century
later, St. Columba witnessed the burial of a man who had been
seized by the monster which had bitten but not devoured him.
The saint was undeterred by this and wished to cross the water.
Unfortunately his boat was on the far side of the loch and so
the saint, rather intelligently, ordered one of his companions
to swim over for it. This
was done and the saint rebuked the monster when she duly appeared
in pursuit. This is a far cry from today’s
expeditions with mini-submarines and echo-sounding devices,
Nessie herself, if she exists, remains as elusive as ever.