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Tour
Scotland, River Spey
The
Spey. Britain’s fastest flowing river, rises in the uplands
between Lochs Lochy and Laggan, a few miles above the tiny Loch
Spey, and flows north-eastward to
the sea which it enters at Spey Bay some 100 miles away, between
Cullen and Lossiernouth. It is one of Scotland’s best
known salmon rivers and also holds trout
of both varieties in abundance. The lovely Strath Spey is now
widely famed as a tourist centre, with ski slopes on the neighbouring
Cairngorm mountains, A part of the Grampian range, the great
granite mountains tower up to the east as the Spey carries its
clear waters down
towards the plain of the Garden of Scotland.
Part
of its upper reaches are paced by the now abandoned line of
General Wade’s military road to Fort Augustus which becomes
firm again below Garva Bridge. Joined by the river Markie below
the Black Craig, the Spey then runs through Laggan and on below
the heights of Creag Dhubh (2,350 feet), the Black Rock. Halfway
up its rocky face is to be found Cluny’s Cave, Uaimh
Cluanaidh, and here the chief of the MacPherson clan lay hidden
during the aftermath of the ‘45. The Spey here
moves sluggishly through deep pools.
Below
Spey Bridge the river passes Newtonmore, a skiing and pony-trekking
centre with a good golf course, and runs on to Kingussie three
miles on. Known as the capital of Badenoch, Kingussie is a larger
centre in the shadow of the Monadhilath mountains, with the
Grampians rearing their ramparts across the river to the south
and the Cairngorms in view to the east. Once known as Cinn
Ghiuthsaich, (Head of the Pine Forest), Kingussie contains the
little museum of Am Fasgadh, full of antiquities of Highland
life. On the opposite side of the
river are the remains of the Ruthven Barracks, built in 1718
and burned down by the Jacobites in 1746.
From
Kingussie the Spey flows down to Loch Insh in an area once notable
for constant flooding and known as the ‘Drowned Lands’.
Loch Insh, the ‘Loch of the Island’, holds pike
and trout in quantities and in the spring the salmon fishing
is good. At its head is the small village of Kincraig, whence
the Spey flows towards the Cairngorms at Aviemore. At Avieniore
the Spey Valley Tourist
Organisation has its headquarters and the well-known Aviemore
Centre is the hub of a vast and well-organised tourist area.
The Centre contains a large ice rink, indoor swimming pool,
cinema, ballroom and other attractions and was built at a cost
of some three million pounds. Hotels abound throughout the valley
and chairlifts and restaurants are there to cater for the needs
of the
thousands of skiing enthusiasts who flock to the area in the
season.
Strathspey
is the land of the Grants, who for six centuries have dominated
the area. Castle Grant, which is just north of Grantown-on-Spey,
dates back to the 12th century. To the north-east of Aviemore
is the church of Kincardine where the Grants exterminated the
last of the Cummings by setting it ablaze.
Lower
down is the Boat of Garten bridge whose name commemorates the
old ferry that preceded it. A little further down, at Netheybridge,
the Spey passes close by the ruins of Castle Roy and shortly
afterwards it is joined by the river Dulnain. Just north of
Speybridge is Grantown-on-Spey. an early example of a New Town’.
Founded by Sir Ludovic Grant in 1765, it turned an attractive
nioorland setting into a thriving township and is now an important
sports and holiday centre, with Highland gatherings, sheepdog
trials and a ski school.
The
Spey broadens out beyond Craigellachie having been joined a
little earlier by the Avon at Ballindalloch and, in a series
of wide loops, skirts its way past Ben Aigan (1,544 feet), the
last obstacle before the coastal plain, passing
through Rothes-on-Spey and under Boat o’ Bridge before
reaching Foehabers. Here stands Gordon Castle. the former seat
of the Dukes of Richmond and Gordon. Just beyond, at Spey Mouth,
the river reaches the sea.
Return
To Lochs and Rivers
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