|
|
Tulliallan
Parish by A.H.Millar FSA Scot 1895
Tulliallan, like the adjoining parish of Culross, formed a detached
portion of Perthshire; but by the rearrangement proposed by
the Boundary Commissioners, and confirmed by an Order in Council,
dated 23rd February, 1891, it also was separated from Perthshire
and added to Fife. It lies immediately to the west of Culross,
and is bounded on the west and north by Clackmannan, and on
the south and south-west by the Firth of Forth. Its utmost length
from north to south is three and three-quarter miles, and at
no part does it exceed three miles in breadth. The two lochs
of Pepper Mill Dam and Tulliallan Water are fed by small rivulets
which rise in Clackmannanshire and in Culross parish, and they
find an exit to the Forth by an inconsiderable stream that flows
into the river near the town of Kincardine. In early times the
parish consisted only of the estate of Tulliallan; but in 1659
the boundaries were altered so as to include the barony of Kincardine
and the estates of Lurg, Sands and Kellywood, which had formerly
been in Culross parish. The population of the parish has fluctuated
very considerably during the present century, as the following
figure will show:- (1801) 2800; (1831) 3550; (1861) 2410; (1871)
2148; (1881) 2207; (1891) 2177. The shore is for most part level,
but the ground rises towards the north in the form of a broad-based
hill, which attains a height of 325 feet, and then slopes towards
the north in gentle undulations.
The
town of Kincardine-on-Forth, the only populous place in the parish,
is situated in a position which ought to have made it of great
commercial importance. It has an excellent roadstead; and as the
Forth is only half-a-mile wide at this spot, the ferry was at
one time the main communication between Kinross-shire district
and the southern shore. During last century a great development
of the shipping took place at Kincardine, for it is stated in
the "Old Statistical Account" that, whilst there were
only five boats from 10 to 20 tons burden belonging to the town
in the beginning of the century, by 1740 there were no less than
30 vessels connected with the port from 15 to 60 tons burden,
with a total tonnage of 860. Shipbuilding was carried on for some
time here with great success. In 1786 there were nine vessels
on the stocks at one time, and the Kincardine vessels then registered
were 90 in number, with a tonnage of 5461 ~ considerably more
than Alloa then possessed. The decline in trade began through
the stopping of some coal mines in the district, the abandoning
of the salt pans, and the shutting up of some of the thriving
distilleries in the neighbourhood. Referring to Kincardine, Mr
David Beveridge says, in his valuable work on "Culross and
Tulliallan":-"The present town was in great measure
created by the shipbuilding trade, which attained a wonderful
prosperity in the end of the last and the beginning of the present
century, and engrossed the industry of the inhabitants so much
that a cursory perusal of the inscriptions in the burying-ground
adjoining the old church of Tulliallan would lead the visitor
to the conclusion that almost every person in Kincardine had been
a shipowner. Now the trade has entirely disappeared, and scarcely
a vessel is to be seen at Kincardine, except a few lying off in
the roadstead that have come up there with cargoes of wood, or
occasionally grain, preparatory to their being conveyed by means
of lighters to Alloa. A woollen factory, a rope and sail work,
and a large paper mill constructed out of the once famous distillery
at Kilbagie, about two miles distant from the town, are the only
sources of employment for the inhabitants in the way of trade
and manufactures." The Forth Paper Works at Kilbagie, referred
to by Mr Beveridge, are situated outside the parish, and are in
the County of Clackmannan. The salmon fishing in the Forth also
gives employment to a number of the inhabitants of Tulliallan
parish. An attempt was made to restore the importance of Kincardine
by the improvement of the harbour many years ago; but the development
of the railway system has left the town outside of the great lines
of traffic and commerce. In 1823 and 1839 two embankments were
erected on the west and east sides of the town for the purpose
of reclaiming land from the Forth. The bank on the west side is
11 feet high and 2020 yards long, and by it 152 acres were reclaimed
at a cost of £6104. The eastern embankment is 16 feet high
and 3040 yards long. It cost £14,000, and by it 214 acres
were reclaimed. Kincardine is a burgh of barony under the control
of three bailies. The only noteworthy antiquity in the town is
the Market Cross, which stands in an open space in the centre
of the burgh. It is an elegant Corinthian pillar, nearly nineteen
feet high by four feet in circumference, raised on a graded base,
and bearing the arms of the Earls of Kincardine carved on the
capital. Though there is no date upon it, there is every probability
that it was erected in the middle of the seventeenth century.
The
ruined castle of Tulliallan is situated about a mile to the north
of Kincardine, within a well wooded park, and commanding a magnificent
view of the carse of Stirling. It is supposed that the waters
of the Forth flowed near its walls at one time, though the work
of reclamation has transferred it inland. Even in its decay the
castle presents many tokens of its having been one of the finest
structures of its time in some respects. A detailed description
of the ruin, with many illustrations, will be found in Messrs
Macgibben & Ross's "Castellated and Domestic Architecture
of Scotland" (page 550). Referring to the castle, these writers
say it as been designed as a pleasant residence rather than a
place of strength, and thus shows more elegance and taste in its
architecture than is usual in the great but gloomy castle of the
time. This is well illustrated by the fine vaulting of the ground
floor, which surpasses anything of the same kind to be met with
in any similar building in Scotland. At the same time, defence
was not lost sight of. The principal entrance has been approached
by a drawbridge, the recess for which, together with the aperture
for the chain and the chamber for the windlass, are all well preserved.
This entrance was also protected by a portcullis, and there are
apertures or machicolations over both this door and the postern
at the east end by which missiles might be thrown on assailants
who might have penetrated through the outer doors. The ground
floor was divided into two apartments, both beautifully vaulted
with groined and ribbed arches resting on a row of central pillars.
The smaller of these apartments, 25 feet 6 inches by 22 feet.
had a great fireplace with moulded jambs and large projecting
hood. The distinctive architectural features of the fireplace
are so decidedly Early English that it might at first be imagined
hat the building belonged to the thirteenth century; but an examination
of other portions of the structure proves that Tulliallan is not
older than the fifteenth century. .The moulded sconces for lights
at each side of the chimney are rare features in Scotland, though
not uncommon in France and England. The windows of this room are
of unusual size for a ground flat, and have trefoil arched heads
and stone seats in the recesses. The small wing at the northeast
corner was probably intended both as a garderobe and as a flanking
tower for defence. The other apartment on the ground floor, which
is 37 feet, seems to have been used for stores, as it has no fireplace,
and only small square openings for windows. The projecting northwest
wing with separate staircase was probably the cellar, but might
also be used for purposes of defence. The upper floor contained
the great hall, 38 feet by 22 feet 6 inches, and private hall,
21 feet 6 inches, with a bedroom off it over the cellar. A staircase
contained in the projecting octagonal tower between the latter
rooms leads down to the cellars and upwards to the floor above.
A peculiar feature connected with the common hall is an outside
entrance door on the first floor level. This was probably reached
by an outside stair of some temporary kind, which might be removed
in case of attack. This arrangement would make it unnecessary
to lower the drawbridge and open the principal entrance doorway
except on special occasions. It also explains why the main staircase
led to the private hall instead of, as usual, to the common hall,
as without the above separate entrance all the traffic to the
hall would have passed through the private room, which would have
been very inconvenient. The mansion seems to have been enlarged,
probably in the sixteenth century, when the northeast wing was
doubled in size, and carried up several storeys so as to provide
bedrooms. The house was surrounded with a rectangular enclosure
with a ditch and mound, the latter no doubt palisaded, traces
of which are distinctly visible.
The
name of the builder of Tulliallan Castle is not certainly known.
The place was long in the possession of the Blackadders, but there
are so many errors in the received genealogy of that family that
it must be accepted with caution. The following account of Tulliallan
and its proprietors is founded upon an examination of numerous
charters connected with the estate, and may be received as authentic.
The
first family name found associated with Tulliallan in deeds and
charters is that of Edmonstoun. David Edmonstoun of Ednam, in
Roxburghshire, died previous to 1416, leaving his son James a
minor. In course of time James Edmonstoun succeeded to and acquired
extensive estates in various parts of Scotland. He became Edmonstoun
of that Ilk, purchased the estate of Boyne, in Banffshire, and
also Tulliallan, though the name of the previous proprietor of
the latter place is not recorded. In his later years he was designated
"of Tulliallan," and it is therefore likely that he
had a manorial residence on the estate, though it is improbable
that he built the castle of which the ruins remain. At his death
in 1485 James Edmonstoun left only two daughters, Elizabeth and
Margaret, both of whom were then married, and the estates were
divided in equal portions between them. Elizabeth was married
to Sir Patrick Blackadder, son of Robert Blackadder of that Ilk,
in Berwickshire; while the husband of Margaret was Walter Ogilvy,
a scion of the Ogilvys of Airlie. By a charter dated 1485 an arrangement
was made whereby Elizabeth Edmonstoun resigned her share in the
estate of Boyne in exchange for Margaret's share of Tulliallan,
and thus the two families of Ogilvy of Boyne and Blackadder of
Tulliallan were founded. By a curious error the famous Robert
Blackadder, first archbishop of Glasgow, and founder of the part
of Glasgow Cathedral known as Blackadder's Aisle, is repeatedly
described by historians as the son of Sir Patrick Blackadder and
Elizabeth Edmonstoun. But in the charter whereby the Archbishop
founded the Chapel of St Kentigern, near Culross, Sir Patrick
is distinctly designated the brother-german of the Archbishop.
The confusion has arisen possibly from the fact that the younger
son of Sir Patrick was Magister Patrick Blackadder, who was archdeacon
of Glasgow. The only other son of Elizabeth Edmonstoun was John
Blackadder, to whom she resigned the succession of the estate
of Tulliallan in 1487. Sir Patrick Blackadder died in 1507, and
after his death his son the Archdeacon gave over all claims he
had upon Tulliallan to his brother, John Blackadder. The charter
by which this resignation was effected is noteworthy as containing
the earliest documentary reference to the Castle of Tulliallan.
This almost decidedly shows that Sir Patrick Blackadder was the
builder of the structure. Still further to confirm this theory,
it will be found on examination that the peculiar style of vaulting
in the castle, to which Messrs Macgibben & Ross refer, is
an adaptation of the vaulting found in Blackadder's Aisle at Glasgow
Cathedral. This evidently suggests that the workmen whom the Archbishop
had employed at Glasgow were sent to build his brother's Castle
of Tulliallan, and possibly also the Chapel of St Kentigern at
Culross. No other theory will sufficiently account for the unique
form of vaulting adopted at the castle, which is without a parallel
in Scottish domestic architecture.
John Blackadder of Tulliallan succeeded to the estate of Tulliallan
in 1507, and in 1529 he resigned the lands to his son John. It
was a fortunate circumstance for the family that he did so, as
in 1530 he was tried and executed for the murder of the Abbot
of Culross , and in the ordinary course his lands would have been
forfeited to the Crown. John Blackadder, junior, was then a minor,
under the tutelage of his mother's brother, and in 1513, with
the consent of his curators, he sold the Overtoun of Tulliallan
to his uncle, Robert Stewart, in Dunfermline. In 1544 John Blackadder
married Margaret Halkerston, and in 1551 the lands were confirmed
to them by Queen Mary. He had espoused the cause of the unfortunate
Queen, and accordingly, while preparations were being made by
the Regent Moray to take the field and begin the campaign which
terminated at Langside in May, 1568, the Privy Council ordered
that John Blackadder should resign to the Regent "the castell,
tour, and fortalice of Tulliallane." By some means he succeeded
in escaping the dangers of the situation, and was still laird
of Tulliallan in 1578. His brother, Patrick Blackadder, parson
of Tulliallan, was one of the firebrands of the time, and his
name frequently appears in the records of the Privy Council as
the defender in actions for assault and riot. John Blackadder
was succeeded by his son James, whose name first appears as laird
of Tulliallan in 1585, and who was in possession of the estate
in 1605. He was the last of the race to hold the estate, and shortly
after this date it was acquired by Sir George Bruce of Carnock.
Early last century the baronies of Tulliallan and Kincardine were
purchased by Colonel Erskine, who was succeeded by his son, John
Erskine of Carnock, the famous jurist. The latter bequeathed Tulliallan
and Cardross to James Erskine, the eldest son of his second marriage
with Miss Stirling of Keir. James Erskine's son, David Erskine
of Cardross, was married to a daughter of John, Lord Elphinstone,
and his wife's uncle, the Hon. George Keith Elphinstone (afterwards
Baron Keith), purchased the estate of Tulliallan from David Erskine
in 1798. Lord Keith (born 1747, died 1823) attained the rank of
Admiral of the Blue, was created a peer of Ireland with the title
Baron Keith of Stonehaven Marischal, and advanced to the dignity
of Viscount Keith in 1 804. By his first marriage, with Miss Mercer
of Aldie, had one daughter, the Hon. Margaret Mercer Elphinstone,
who succeeded, in terms of the patent, to the barony of Keith,
though the other titles became extinct. Lord Keith's second wife
was Hester Maria, daughter of Mrs Thrale, the friend of Or Samuel
Johnston, and by her he had one daughter, the Hon. Georgina Augusta
Henrietta, who was married first to the Hon. Augustus John Villiers,
son of the Earl of Jersey, and secondly to Lord William Godolphin
Osborne, brother of the eighth Duke of Leeds. By his will Lord
Keith devised the estate of Tulliallan to his two daughters successively;
and after the death of the Baroness Keith, the elder daughter,
in 1867 it fell to Lady W.G.Godolphin Osborne, whose husband had
assumed the additional name of Elphinstone. She died in March,
1893, but as the estate reverts to the representative of the elder
daughter of Lord Keith, it is now in the possession of Lady Keith's
son, the Marquess of Lansdowne. The modern mansion of Tulliallan
was erected by Viscount Keith in 1818, and stands a short distance
to the south-east of the old castle, and close beside the town
of Kincardine. Long before its erection the castle had been abandoned,
and it is likely that no one has resided in it since the last
of the Blackadders departed this life, as later proprietors had
mansions elsewhere. In 1722 the castle was described as a ruin.
The present estate of Tulliallan is very much larger than that
which belonged to the Blackadders, as additions were made to it
by the purchase of adjoining properties both by the Erskines and
the Elphinstones. The estate of Sands, which has been in the possession
of the Johnstons of Sands for over a century and a half, is now
the property of Laurence Johnston, Esq. It is situated to the
north of Longannet Point, and includes the farms of Sands Home
Farm, Blawlowan, and Cockmuirhall, and the quarry of Kelliewood.
A portion of the estate of Airthrey, belonging to Lord Balfour
of Burleigh, lies within Tulliallan parish, and includes Gartarry
and Hartshaw and the quarry of Brucefield. At Bordie, on the main
road to Kincardine, the ruins of the old mansion of the Bruces
of Bordie may still be seen.
If
you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized
small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me:
Return
to Fife
|
|